Friday, July 22, 2011

Last Reflections of a Weary Traveler

It seems to me that having the ability to travel the globe once in a while is a luxury that should be taken with much appreciation.   While that is more than true in my case, sometimes what I come to appreciate is not only the travel and adventures, but, in the end, the ability to come home.  Modern travel is still something I'm in awe of.   How one can get into this giant tube shaped object with two wings and be jet propelled across the globe into another world in a matter of hours is still something that I marvel at.  My body seems to find this mode of transportation extremely undesirable though, and tries its hardest to protest the new time zone by putting me to sleep when I don't want to be, being alert and awake when I shouldn't be, and making me hungry at the most inappropriate times.  As in the power of the body, however, it finally gives in after about four days and decides it will live, in peace, within this new time frame. 

As in the case of Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, we all seem to have this need to run away from home once in a while.  As adults, we call this a "vacation".  To occasionally escape from the confines and obligations of everyday life and to leave behind the day to day routine in favor of adventure and the unknown is something we all try to achieve.  Five weeks, however, seems to be a bit extreme.  I do believe though, that if one is going to buy an airline ticket that costs more than the average monthly house payment and go somewhere seven time zones away, that staying long enough to make it worth it is certainly something to strive for.  With that being said, this adventure has been one that I have come away from with more knowledge and appreciation of not only other cultures and customs and the ancestry we come from, but with the ability to make a true comparison of my own little corner of the world as well. 

Having relatives in the United Kingdom who welcome us with open arms is a godsend as well.  They give us enough information that we can actually act like we know what we are doing in another country.   They are kind, sweet and giving as we descend upon them and change their daily routines in favor of leading us to places of interest and showing us more of their country.   I am wondering why they don't realize that by giving us so many positives, that they are only asking for a return visit after such a convincing job of showing us all the wonderful things and sites around the U.K.   We can never repay their kindnesses in full, but have vowed to make a visit here entirely worth their while if we can get them to make that long trek across the globe.

The main goal of this trip, of course, was The West Highland Way hike.   Supposedly, it is "only" 95 miles.  However, being married to one whose sense of adventure can tax even the most enthusiastic, we started one step earlier and extended it to 105 miles.  Most take the train to Milngavie.  We are not most and therefore walked from Glasgow instead, extending the wear and tear on the feet and knees by another 10 miles.  What's another 10 miles?   During this walk, I often questioned by own sanity.  Why did I agree to do this?  Certainly, there are better ways to get from point A to point B.  I got to England in a rocket ship,  yet it takes an entire day to walk 10 miles.  I did see scenery that was some of the most picturesque in all of the country.  Scotland is a charmingly green and lush country.  It is a destination that I could go back to again and again.  England itself possesses its own unique beauty.  I have now visited here long enough to get to know most of the different areas.  The train system that runs throughout the country is a wonderful mode of transportation.   It is one of the things I wish the U.S. would provide more of.  The people of the United Kingdom have always been welcoming and helpful.  They love to strike up a conversation once they hear the American accent.  Brief encounters with these people has been a pleasure and I often come away with a feeling of unity among people whose interests in life are not unlike mine.  So even though my knees are paying the price of walking over rocks, up stairs and steps, climbing over fences and ladders and jumping a few waterfalls, I must say that the experience in itself provided for some stunning scenic views I would not otherwise have seen from a car, bus or train.  The one thing I could have done without was the midges.  These tiny little insects love to swarm around, and yet for something so small, can bite with ferociousness and leave you itching.  However, unlike mosquitoes, they will only bite if you stop.  As long as you keep moving, they won't bother with you.  If I have to find an advantage in that, it is that you certainly get to the days destination a lot faster if you just keep going.   That pint of hard cider at the end of the day can also certainly be a strong motivator.   My next goal is to now find a way to import the stuff into my own refrigerator. 

The long awaited flight home was another test in patience.  That virtue, I'm afraid, is one I was not blessed with.  I find it difficult to wait, stand in endless lines and witness timetables and schedules that do not coincide with the written promise to get me home in the most direct and efficient manner possible.  The first leg of the flight from London to Toronto didn't leave for an hour and a half after it was supposed to.  No explanation on why I had to sit in a crowded airport longer than necessary was ever given.  However, there was one extremely pleasant surprise to this otherwise slow start to the journey home.  After going through numerous lines, having my passport checked over and over again, looking at my boarding pass, going through security, I was finally at the departure gate.  Every boarding pass was scanned, every one passed through without a problem, and the line kept moving.  Presenting mine to the agent, he scanned it routinely and then stopped cold, making some remark under his breath and looking intently at the computer screen.  He studied the boarding pass again, clicked a few keys on the computer and then promptly, and without hesitation, tore my boarding pass in half.  I asked him what was wrong with it.  He said, "Nothing.  You just got a better seat."   He then handed it to me and I moved on, well aware of the stopped line of people behind me.  Eric was in a line next to me.  I asked him if they changed his seat assignment.  He said yes.  I looked at it to see where I had been moved to.  It said 8G.  Somehow, I thought I just got moved further up so that I could get to our very close connecting flight a little faster.   I saw Kari and Chad, who had gone through the line ahead of us.  I asked if they got moved up.  They said no.  We were all supposed to be sitting together, back in the confines of row 41.  They got up and asked the agent why parents were moved, but not them.  No explanation was given, only the conveyance of a message that it was not their decision and no, they would not be moved up with us.  Not having really looked at the new boarding pass other than to see what row I was in, I had no idea what my "better seat" meant.  Kari asked if she could see it.  Looking at it she said, "Mom, this is a first class/executive ticket."  I saw where it said that, but still didn't really believe it.
Then she showed me hers. In the same spot where it said "Economy Class" on hers, mine now read, "First Class/Executive".  I still wondered if it was right.   So when they called for first class passengers to board, we got up and headed to the gate.  I presented this boarding pass, was given a smile and let on through with all the others.  "Wow", I thought, "it really is!"   I won't go into all the details of all the amenities of this now prestigious place on the plane, but suffice it to say that since I normally don't travel this way, I had to study the brochure placed in the magazine rack of my seat to see what all those buttons actually did.  It was definitely the easiest 7 1/2 hour flight I have ever had.  Being able to fully recline, sleep, be served numerous meals and snacks and be constantly attended to is a travel method I could get used to.   A real plus!   After arriving in Toronto at exactly the same time as our Portland flight was leaving, it was obvious we would be in for another adventure in how to get home.   Again, standing in a line with all the others who had missed their connections as well, I wondered how long it would be before I actually touched US soil.  We were given new boarding passes to Vancouver, B.C. and told that when we arrived, the airline would get us a hotel room and fly us to Portland the next day.  None of the details would be known until we arrived in Vancouver.  In the meantime, take your bags and go stand in another endless line and check them through to Vancouver instead of PDX.   Two hours later, we were finally at the departure gate.  However, we were not scheduled to leave until 11:00 p.m.   Again, leaving later than promised, the 4 1/2 hour flight to Vancouver arrived at 1:30 a.m. Pacific time.  It was now 9:30 a.m. in the U.K. and we had gotten up at 7:00 a.m. the day before.   Again, more waiting, more lines to stand in and we were given a voucher for our hotel accommodation.   Thankfully, it was located within the airport and so we didn't need to be shuttled anywhere.   By the time we got to the room, it was 2:30 a.m.  The flight to Portland left at 8:40.  After figuring in check in times, more lines, etc.  we estimated that a shower and a four hour nap was all that was going to be afforded on this stay.   Up and out early, we got through it all.  The plane, again, left a little later than scheduled, and we arrived in Portland at 10:00 a.m.   We drove from Portland to Salem, had lunch, then headed down the road to Roseburg.  Keeping the driver awake and alert was the main focus of all the passengers.    A quick trip to the grocery store was necessary and then we finally got home around 5:00 p.m.   I managed to stay awake doing a few things around the house until 9:00 p.m.  I woke up at 5:30 a.m. ready to go, and so, got up and got moving.  I will say that this upside down and backward time zone change will take a few days to sort out.  Body rebellion once again consumes me and I will take it slowly until I can convince it that this really is where I want to be.  

So this journey, both to the U.K. and through more airports than I was scheduled to see, finally comes to an end.   I hope that through this adventure you felt I took you with me.  I really did want all of you there and this was the closest way I could do that.  Thanks for riding along, reading along and sharing your comments.  Thanks for the chats, emails and other communication while we were gone.  I look forward to seeing some of you in person in the near future.   Just let me get a few more naps in first.  Mission accomplished on the England/Scotland Expedition, but as stated earlier, just like Dorothy who had the need to leave home for a while, upon returning, I will have to whole heartedly agree, there really is no place like home!! 

Saturday, July 16, 2011

Into the Lake District

I woke up to the sound of rain this morning. Looked out the window and it was absolutely pouring. Weather predictions promised a better afternoon, so taking our time, we didn't head out until a little after 10:00 a.m. It's not far to go to the Lake District from here in Wigton. We headed for Near Sawrey, a small village, where the home of Beatrix Potter is located. The home, Hill Top Farm, has all of her original furnishings and belongings, including sketches and drawings of her work. Photos scattered about the house of Beatrix, her property and family, are said to be taken by her father. Some of the paintings on the wall were painted by her brother. We were not allowed to take pictures in the house, but took several outside and around the grounds. Check out some posted here for an idea of what we saw.

Lunch was in the tea house next door. We then took the ferry and spent part of the afternoon looking around the village of Ambleside. A quick stop in Keswick on the drive home completed the day. All of these stops are in The Lake District, which has been a favorite area of mine since the first time we traveled to England in the mid 90s. I never tire of it's beauty.

Tomorrow Kari and Chad will travel to London to spend some time looking around before we come home. I'm not quite sure what we will do, but my plan is to take it somewhat easy until Tuesday. On that day, we take the train back to London, stay near Heathrow Airport, and on Wednesday, July 20, we make the long flight back home. This trip, including a 105 mile hike, is almost done. It's time to start the end of this journey!!

All of us together at Hill Top Farm. 7/16/11

I found Peter Rabbit in Beatrix Potter's yard!!

Beatrix Potter's Garden - Notice the watering can

Beatrix Potter's Garden Path

Hill Top Farm - Home of Beatrix Potter

Hill Top Farm - Home of Beatrix Potter

Friday, July 15, 2011

A Day at Whitehaven & A Visit

Since the Beatrix Potter house was closed today, we opted to head to Whitehaven, on the west coast of England on the Irish Sea. We remember the area well as nearby sits St. Bee's Head where we began the Coast to Coast hike in 06. Went to The Rum Story, a wonderful place regarding the history of Whitehaven. Had a nice lunch afterward and then walked around Whitehaven for a bit. Left mid afternoon and decided to take a slight detour. Traveling back, we drove though Ennerdale, which was our first stop after our first day of hiking on the C to C in 06. We made our way through the village and from memory, made our way to the B&B that we stayed at. Back in 06, we were real greenhorns as far as hiking England went. Dorothy, the woman who runs the B&B, helped us tremendously and we had a real successful hike thanks to her. What we learned from her also helped us plan our West Highland Way hike. It seemed appropriate to stop by. She remembered us!! So well, in fact, that she asked Eric about the store and wondered if I was still playing tennis. Then she told us of something that she bought for her kitchen after she and I had discussed kitchen tool stuff. We only had a short visit but it was so great to see her and talk for just a bit. Big hugs and fond goodbyes made for a perfect ending to the afternoon. And Kudos to Margaret for driving us around and taking us to see Dorothy.

Tomorrow we head to the land of Beatrix Potter in the Lake District. Should be a fun day! Keep following along. We're just about done!

The breakwaters at Whitehaven and the Irish Sea

The Boat Yard at Whitehaven

Whitehaven Marina

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Hadrian's Wall

Took a day trip to Hadrian's Wall today. It is about an hours drive from Wigton, which is our home base until we come home. Took lots of great pictures today. So many, in fact, that the camera battery finally died and we had to come home and charge it back up! Stopped for lunch at the Twice Brewed Inn, which is located near a village called Once Brewed. Don't know the story on this one. Maybe that's a good thing. On the way home, we made a quick stop at the Lanercost Priory, a 12th century church. Took a few more pictures (this is where the camera finally died) and then headed back to Wigton. Cooked on the BBQ tonight, a first here in the UK. Probably the last too, as the weather is predicted to deteriorate by Saturday. One positive thing about the UK though - the weather report changes day to day!!! What can be a prediction of rain can turn totally opposite in less than 24 hours. So, here's hoping!

Tomorrow we will head to Whitehaven for the day, while Kari and Chad head to Carlisle to watch the new Harry Potter movie, which opens tomorrow. Guess I don't need to tell Harry Potter fans that though, do I? Whitehaven is a coastal port village. Will just look around for the day. Plans to visit the home of Beatrix Potter (is everyone here named Potter??) have been nixed due to some wise person's decision to close it on Fridays. Glad we realized that before heading all the way over there! Hopefully, we will be able to do that on Saturday.

So on we go. We seem to still be doing a lot of walking in spite of the fact that the hike is over. In fact, I hiked about 1/4 mile this evening to the liquor store to buy a couple of bottles of my precious Kappaberra Cider. Tonight's flavor was Strawberry-Lime. Totally worth hiking another 1/2 mile for! Ha ha. Only difference is, tonight it was in flip flops. :)

Visited the Priory today

Lanercost Priory

Lunch stop today!

Hadrian's Wall

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Touring Yorkshire

On Sunday afternoon, we again boarded a train in Carlisle, and this time, headed south to Skipton. Yes, we have become very proficient at train travel, although we admit to knowing since we have been here several times. We were picked up by relatives and went to their home in Birstwith. Internet and cell signal was a little iffy and it was difficult to load pictures, so this blog is a few days late.

The first day we drove around the Yorkshire Dales. We went to a place called Coldstones, which was located high atop a ridge. Yes, another climbing hike, but short and swift and we were up there in little time. See the pictures posted for a view from the top! Next we headed to Grassington. Since it is hard to describe this quaint little village, pictures posted for your viewing pleasure. Lunch was in Hebden Bridge at a nice pub. We then drove around to see the scenery of the Dales.

Tuesday began early and ended late. We attended the Yorkshire Show which is known as the largest county show in England. We saw everything from horse shows, to food shows, farm equipment to cars, garden equipment to garden tools, clothing, shoes, household goods, furniture, and more than we could possibly take in in one day. We were in awe of all we saw and can say that it makes anything we have back in the U. S. look minuscule. Dinner followed at The Wellington to say goodbye to dear relatives.

This morning we took a quick drive to see a timber company and to look at some property for sale. And NO, we aren't buying ANYTHING here! Ha ha. SOME PEOPLE just have a need to look at this stuff. Hint: not me!! After returning back to Birstwith, we bought lunch to go to eat on the train, loaded bags and off we went back to Skipton. Train ride back to Carlisle was nice with lots of sunshine and the usual beauty of the English countryside. One never tires of looking out the window!

So, back in Wigton, we are taking it easy and have a couple of things planned. Tomorrow morning we are off to take a look at Hadrians Wall. Will be back mid afternoon and will BBQ while the weather is still nice. Friday may take us back to the Lake District to Hawkshead, home of Beatrix Potter, to see where she lived and wrote her famous children's stories. After that, the weather is predicted to deteriorate, so the weekend plans are still on hold. A week from today, we fly home! So, we are just taking day trips until then. Follow us on a few more adventures. It's just about over!

Dinner at The Wellington, right to left, David B, Kris, Chad, Elaine, Kari

Hey Bob Hobi, Eric needs you to order this!! His new desire!

Horse Jumping at The Yorkshire Show

The Great Yorkshire Show

Street in Grassington

Grassington Village in the Yorkshire Dales

View from the top of Coldstones

Entrance into Coldstones

Coldstones on the Ridge

Friday, July 8, 2011

We're in Wigton!

The train ride through the green hills and valleys of Scotland was a peaceful one and a good way to reflect and remember the time we spent hiking there. As the train made its way south to England, we passed the very trails we had walked on. In a few areas, the trail ran parallel to the tracks and we could see and remember exact locations. In one area, we followed the trail over several days of the hike. What took us four days to walk took only about 15 to 20 minutes to ride past! At that point, we decided we were happy to ride and not have to walk back! We changed trains in Glasgow and after a quick lunch, headed into Carlisle, where we were picked up by the relatives we are currently staying with.

Because their home is very comfortable, we feel right at home here, which has resulted in a complete let down and we have become very lazy and inactive. We did do some looking around Wigton today and did a bit of food shopping for lunch and dinner, but other than a load or two of laundry, it was a relaxing, not do much of anything day. Tomorrow we might look around Keswick, have lunch there and then head back to Wigton for a rest, an early dinner and then back to Keswick to attend a theatre production called "Noises Off", said to be a comedy. Looking forward to another new experience - local British theatre!

On Sunday afternoon, we take the train to Skipton, where other relatives that we have not had a chance to see yet on this trip, will pick us up. We will be staying in Birstwith at their country home, complete with a few farm animals and a wonderful English garden. We will be there until Wednesday, July 13, when we will return by train back to Wigton. Final plans for the last week here haven't been finalized. This is the relaxing part of the trip and its nice to not have to be regimented to a strict schedule. So, slowly we walk now, with not too far to go. :)

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Post Hike Activities

Most people, when finishing a hike of 105 miles, would rest and take it easy. Not so with this family! While most spent the 4th of July enjoying family BBQs and fireworks, here in Scotland it was just another day! So we decided that climbing an ice wall would be a good activity of choice. Still in Kinlochleven at this point, it seemed a good thing to do, mostly just because the wall "just there". Afterwards, we boarded a bus to Fort William for three days of looking around. Arriving in the afternoon, we checked in to St. Andrews B&B and after a short rest, looked around town a bit. The next morning, instead of doing something fun, we headed out to do some much needed laundry. In the afternoon, Eric and I took a Loch Linnhe cruise and Kari and Chad decided to do a little shopping. This brings us to today. After breakfast, we took a bus to the Ben Nevis Distillery. Exercising discipline, we left with only a book and poster in hand. After lunch and a rest, we headed to the train station to board the Jacobite Steam Train. This took us up to Millaig. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't too cooperative and we didn't see as much as we would have on a sunnier day. However, the scenery was still beautiful and seeing some of the Harry Potter movie locations was great! We had time for dinner in Millaig and then headed back on the train to Fort William.

Tomorrow we head back to Wigton via train, where we will see a lot of the hike and a few other places. Plans there include attending a local theatre performance. We will then head down to York to visit other relatives. More later, but as of now, you are all caught up on what we have been up to since the completion of the hike. Goodbye Scotland, hello again England!

The Port Of Millaig

Jacobite Steam Train at Glenfinnan

Ben Nevis Distillery - Fort William

View toward Fort William on Loch Linnhe

View of Ben Nevis from the boat

Cruising Loch Linnhe at Fort William

The commercial marketing end of the West Highland Way

St Andrews B&B in Fort William

End of the hike group photo!

Kari and Eric climbing then short wall with Chad assisting

Gearing Up to Climb the Ice Wall

The Ice Factor Building

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Kinlochleven to Fort William - The End of the Hike!

We booked two nights in Kinlochleven to allow a day to rest and recuperate before the 16 mile walk into Fort Willliam for the last and final day of the hike. Weather prediction was a little iffy for Monday, so plans were changed and the hike was moved ahead by one day to Sunday, July 3. The day started out warm and sunny. Since reservations were still in Kinlochleven, the hike needed to be completed before 5:00 p.m. Which is when the last bus left Fort William for Kinlochleven. The trail turned out to be a shorter version of the devils staircase as there were many switchbacks, as we climbed 850 feet. The trail topped out at the entrance of a huge glen, whichnran east and west. At the end we topped out on was astounding fires of Loch Leven. We started west in a huge mountain valley. The trail was a big track and passed several old ruins of farms where people tried to make a go of it in this rugged territory. After about 3 miles, the valley turned to the north and started downward. We ate lunch before a stone sheep fold, where the birds come to eat lunch with you because they know they will receive a handout simply by being cute. Ben Nevis then came into view, which is the tallest mountain of the British Isles. This also marks the end of the way. We went through some clear cuts and came out on a spot where the trail and the road met. The trail went to the Ben Nevis mountain trails and came out on the east side of Fort William and the road option came out on the west side of Fort William. The road option was shorter and therefore in the best interest of the group due to having to meet the bus. Mission accomplished!! Thus, the end of the journey to the West Highland Way came on the afternoon of July 3, 2011. 12 days to walk 105 miles. Yeah for us!!!!

Heading into Fort William

After the Sheep Shearing

Does This Trail Ever End?

Long Way to Go!!

Monday, July 4, 2011

Kings House to Kinlochleven

This was the day of The Devils Staircase. Aptly named for it's steep incline of 1797 feet and has 22 switchbacks in it!! It took approximately 1 hour to climb and I don't know how the King's men pushed those two wheeled carts over it. Hung out on the top and took more pictures of the surrounding sites and pushed on. We are now looking over the famous Rannoch Moor which is the isles biggest area of non habitation Fifty square miles. Ate lunch overlooking the Blackwter reservoir and side-hilled it to above Kinlochleven. The descent to Kinlochleven took well over an hour and took it's toll on our quads,knees and toes. Arriving into Kinlochleven via the huge pipes carrying water from the Blackwater reservoir we passed the Alcan Aluminum's powerhouse and the Ice Factors world largest ice climbing walls. Tigh na cheo was our bed and breakfast for the next two days as it was our plan to climb some ice the next day. Since the weather is beginning to deteriorate we now will finish the Way tomorrow and climb some ice on the day after. Tomorrow we finish the way with a fourteen and one-half mile burst to Fort William.

Coming Down into Kinlochleven

Looking back down The Devil's Staircase

Nope, This is the Devil's Staircase

The Devil's Staircase????